Rambles and Scrambles in North and South America

Rambles and scrambles in North and South America chronicles the travels of Sir Edward Robert Sullivan throughout - you guessed it - North and South America in 1850-51. How and where I first heard of it, I cannot say, but it's been on my reading list for sometime. The review, alas, will be a bit mixed.

Working in the author's favor is Sullivan's prescience.  Of the Indians he writes, "the Indians say that they themselves and the buffalo will go under together, and they are certainly running a neck and neck race for it now." Clearly this came to pass, and pretty much in these terms. Sullivan sees America and Americans with a clear-eyed practicality, particularly as it related to politics. For example, "It is a well-known political axiom in the States, that they never elect a first-rate man to the presidency; they prefer a third or fourth-rate man..." I also liked his take on the heavily armed population he encountered: "If liberty is consists in a man being allowed to shoot and stab his neighbour on the smallest provocation, and to swagger drunk about the streets, then certainly the Crescent city is the place in which to seek it." Indeed,the more things change... And though the portions of Rambles and Scrambles set in South America were a notch below those in North America, Sullivan does hit on the nail on the head a couple of times, as when he notes the "ruinous effects of yearly presidents supplanted by annual revolutions" in parts of South America.

Sullivan's language is vivid, his characterizations colorful, his anecdotes amusing. I particularly liked the story of being searched in New Orleans when he declared he had no "implements" upon his person, and also of the pigeons and peacocks at the Havana theater. Unfortunately, Sullivan is equally thorough in his descriptions of flora and fauna, sea breezes, and navigational techniques. This is understandable given that his audience of Englishmen had not - and likely would not - see this New World for themselves. For today's reader, it makes for rather uneven pacing: trudging through feet of prairie snow with moccasins and Indian guides (usually "half-breeds" who speak French, rather than English) is amazing. Learning the name of every tree and bird encountered on the banks of the Mississippi, less so.

Sullivan's undertaking - both the travels and the writing - is impressive. Ultimately, Rambles and Scrambles makes for better skimming than close reading, and is best enjoyed by American history buffs and those who enjoy travelogues, even (or maybe especially) featuring places and people long since vanished.

Three stars.