I have such mixed feelings about Fuchsia Dunlop's Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper... that it's hard to know where to begin. I'll start with this: I most enjoyed the pages that read as travelogue, that recounted China on the verge of its rapid transformation from Old World to New World, that helped me to see places that no longer exist as they once did.
I least enjoyed much of the writing about food, for reasons that I've been trying to put my finger on for the better part of a week. I think, ultimately, Dunlop's expose, if you will, on Chinese cuisine feels too voyeuristic, and there is too much braggadocio in her reminisces about what she ate and when. I have traveled extensively, in China and elsewhere in Asia. I have eaten chicken's feet. I have eaten duck's heart (better than it sounds). I have eaten duck webs. I have drawn the line at whale and also carpaccio of horse. Other cultures eat "weird" things. Trust me, my local Oriental Mart carries pork blood and beef stomach, along with the ubiquitous chicken feet and duck webs. But then, all cultures eat "weird" things (Cheez Whiz, anyone?), and while I don't doubt that Dunlop has the utmost respect for the Chinese culture, I can't help but feel that this book is simply an open invitation for readers to activate the gag reflex and shudder a collective, "ewww."
With that said, the book itself is well-written, engaging, and informative about Chinese culture, particularly for those with little knowledge of its history, geography, or demographics. For that, I give it four stars. It's all the rest, what I might term the "gut check," that causes me to lower my overall appreciation of the book and hesitate before recommending it too widely.
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